chinese grannies & freezing weather

Crazy changes in weather in Beijing, have thrown us innocent foreigners into a frenzy.  From sweaty, baulmy, t-shirt at night climate to frigid mitten wearing days.  I feel like I slept through autumn, not sure where it went.  The supply of thermal underwear at the local supermarket has kept us alive, profiting greatly from us unprepared Californians.  Most harsh was the lack of heating in our building, until just recently.  Collectively controlled by the government, their anticipated startup date was Nov. 15th.  Early cold weather spell ensured that even midday in our apartment, you could marvel at your our breath condensing in the air.  This we feel is not normal!

Our apartment came without the most basic of items: a fridge.  But that is no problem now.  The outside veranda is sufficient refrigeration, for anything but icecream.  The result of this cold weather is unexpected changes to our psyche and psysiology.  Periods of irritability are not uncommon, as is a general refusal to exercise our sappy bodies.  It is increasingly difficult to crawl out of the blankets in the frosty morning, and make it to the bathroom to "convenience yourself", as the chinese say.  The slap in the face comes when you peak out the window and discover the dozens of 70 to 80 years old are in the patio below, diligently practicing tai chi or their fan-wielding dances, as if it were mid July.  Not sure how they get their bodies in motion at such inhospitable temperatures.  Perhaps its the same perplexion others have when I plunge into the ocean for a pre-dawn surf sesh.  So I guess I can sympathize...

The old folks in this country are phenomenal.  It's as close to utopia for those of "advanced age" as is possible.  In driveways, parks, under highway overpasses, every morning hundreds are out perfecting their bodies for ancestral veneration.  Whole communities of ball room dancers, drum circles, tai chi, and innumerable eccentric ways to stretch your calf muscle.  When I first arrived in Beijing I was struck by the number of playgrounds scattered around town.  Turns out they're all exercise 'toys' for the old folks.  Must see to believe.  So wonderful it warms the heart in the coldest days!! 

After weeks of gossip and misleading reports, "they" have turned on the heaters, earlier than scheduled!!  Bless the flexible & sympathetic souls of the central government. 

The art of chair sitting

With midterms done I have some breathing space to write.  To all those people that claim studying abroad is chill, travel, fun&games - you have deceived me!!  this learning chinese business has turned me into a somewhat serious student. Hours spent pouring over the dictionary, deciphering the puzzle of characters on my page.  then more hours training my hand/brain coordination in order to write a fraction of the language.  Such joy of discipline, my hedonistic and busy life in Santa Barbara could never afford.  Why Harvard students excel: "Boston is boring, so we study well".  I scoff at this kind of self-annihilation.  But I too, have now suffered the fate of multiple hours on a chair, squinting and exercising my human intellect.  So when I admit to being a "somewhat" serious student, it is purely in relation to the collossal efforts my Chinese comrades undertake.  A visit to the campus library, to witness this phenomenon, is a humbling experience.  Students literally "set up shop" at the library desks, with an array of food supplies, from milk powder to instant noodles.  It is also very crowded.  Reportedly, the 7am opening time sees a rush of students hussling to find a good spot, which they guard throughout the day until the 11pm closing time.  The vast majority of the people are studying english on their own, preparing for some insane test several months away.  No classes to attend, just reading books, listening to tapes, working.  And if you don't pass your test, you get to hang out at the library for another year, till your next chance.  two, three, even five years, every day at the library, to get into graduate school, to get a good job.  I find this abosulutely mind-boggling.

And no wonder, given the brutal job market here in China. My hairwashing lady (God bless her - she does a wonderful job) has a daily 12 hour shift, one day off a month.  Most people actually live where they work, in bunk bed style dorms, so it's just one continuous cycle.  Oddly, or perhaps not, the chinese are the most chill, relaxed of all peoples - always have a few minutes for conversation and laughter.   By the way, if you ever come to China, get your hairwashed: 45 minutes of scrubbing, conditioning, complete with a facial and back massage, all for just over US$1.  The minimum wage of US$35/month keeps things nice and cheap.  Meanwhile us sappy foreigners can cruise in to literally any school and get paid $12+ per hour to teach english.  So yeah I give props to the kids at the library plugging away for a better life - work ethic is where it is at.  Gotta admire them, and next time i'm confused/frustrated about the meaning of life perhaps I won't worry as much, and instead I'll just get on with it.