chinese grannies & freezing weather

Crazy changes in weather in Beijing, have thrown us innocent foreigners into a frenzy.  From sweaty, baulmy, t-shirt at night climate to frigid mitten wearing days.  I feel like I slept through autumn, not sure where it went.  The supply of thermal underwear at the local supermarket has kept us alive, profiting greatly from us unprepared Californians.  Most harsh was the lack of heating in our building, until just recently.  Collectively controlled by the government, their anticipated startup date was Nov. 15th.  Early cold weather spell ensured that even midday in our apartment, you could marvel at your our breath condensing in the air.  This we feel is not normal!

Our apartment came without the most basic of items: a fridge.  But that is no problem now.  The outside veranda is sufficient refrigeration, for anything but icecream.  The result of this cold weather is unexpected changes to our psyche and psysiology.  Periods of irritability are not uncommon, as is a general refusal to exercise our sappy bodies.  It is increasingly difficult to crawl out of the blankets in the frosty morning, and make it to the bathroom to "convenience yourself", as the chinese say.  The slap in the face comes when you peak out the window and discover the dozens of 70 to 80 years old are in the patio below, diligently practicing tai chi or their fan-wielding dances, as if it were mid July.  Not sure how they get their bodies in motion at such inhospitable temperatures.  Perhaps its the same perplexion others have when I plunge into the ocean for a pre-dawn surf sesh.  So I guess I can sympathize...

The old folks in this country are phenomenal.  It's as close to utopia for those of "advanced age" as is possible.  In driveways, parks, under highway overpasses, every morning hundreds are out perfecting their bodies for ancestral veneration.  Whole communities of ball room dancers, drum circles, tai chi, and innumerable eccentric ways to stretch your calf muscle.  When I first arrived in Beijing I was struck by the number of playgrounds scattered around town.  Turns out they're all exercise 'toys' for the old folks.  Must see to believe.  So wonderful it warms the heart in the coldest days!! 

After weeks of gossip and misleading reports, "they" have turned on the heaters, earlier than scheduled!!  Bless the flexible & sympathetic souls of the central government. 

The art of chair sitting

With midterms done I have some breathing space to write.  To all those people that claim studying abroad is chill, travel, fun&games - you have deceived me!!  this learning chinese business has turned me into a somewhat serious student. Hours spent pouring over the dictionary, deciphering the puzzle of characters on my page.  then more hours training my hand/brain coordination in order to write a fraction of the language.  Such joy of discipline, my hedonistic and busy life in Santa Barbara could never afford.  Why Harvard students excel: "Boston is boring, so we study well".  I scoff at this kind of self-annihilation.  But I too, have now suffered the fate of multiple hours on a chair, squinting and exercising my human intellect.  So when I admit to being a "somewhat" serious student, it is purely in relation to the collossal efforts my Chinese comrades undertake.  A visit to the campus library, to witness this phenomenon, is a humbling experience.  Students literally "set up shop" at the library desks, with an array of food supplies, from milk powder to instant noodles.  It is also very crowded.  Reportedly, the 7am opening time sees a rush of students hussling to find a good spot, which they guard throughout the day until the 11pm closing time.  The vast majority of the people are studying english on their own, preparing for some insane test several months away.  No classes to attend, just reading books, listening to tapes, working.  And if you don't pass your test, you get to hang out at the library for another year, till your next chance.  two, three, even five years, every day at the library, to get into graduate school, to get a good job.  I find this abosulutely mind-boggling.

And no wonder, given the brutal job market here in China. My hairwashing lady (God bless her - she does a wonderful job) has a daily 12 hour shift, one day off a month.  Most people actually live where they work, in bunk bed style dorms, so it's just one continuous cycle.  Oddly, or perhaps not, the chinese are the most chill, relaxed of all peoples - always have a few minutes for conversation and laughter.   By the way, if you ever come to China, get your hairwashed: 45 minutes of scrubbing, conditioning, complete with a facial and back massage, all for just over US$1.  The minimum wage of US$35/month keeps things nice and cheap.  Meanwhile us sappy foreigners can cruise in to literally any school and get paid $12+ per hour to teach english.  So yeah I give props to the kids at the library plugging away for a better life - work ethic is where it is at.  Gotta admire them, and next time i'm confused/frustrated about the meaning of life perhaps I won't worry as much, and instead I'll just get on with it. 

Stirring the pot

The past 2 weeks things have mellowed down, and I've had a bit of much needed reflection time.  Although previously I planned to extend my stay in Beijing until June next year, during the past couple days I've thrown myself  back into the limbo of indecision.  a variety of reasons are churning through my fickle mind, but currently i'm leaning towards going back to the US in Dec, so any potential housing for winter and spring in SB let me know!!  I'm going to head out this weekend to a old decaying section of the Great Wall, which a chinese friend recommended, do a bit of solo hiking and chillin - we'll see what happens. 

Tiananmen and our new apt

Fellow comrades,

  currently in the middle of China's national celebration holiday, where everyone gets a week off work and school.  on the dawn of tuesday, October 1st, watched the big red flag being raised at Tiananmen Square, together with a few other thousand enthusiasts, some waiting  since the wee hours of the night.  We appropriately wore green military communist attire (lent to us by our curiously odd landlord), which the Chinese all loved - just about everyone in a 100 foot radius around was asking to take pictures with us.  A wonderful sight to behold. 

  Our new apartment is quite a piece.  5 min walk from campus, along a tree lined road with alleys branching off, people selling everything from haircuts to fruit to CDs, and of course ice cream (and we just found a popcorn vendor!!)  Our building is bordering on the side of "ghetto", primarily since the stairway is stinky dirty and dark, window broken, etc... But no more intimidating than riding the elevator, which is always manned by an extremely eccentric individual: a midget lady, a grumpy chain smoker, or a lovable old grandpa.  Only thing they have in common is their radio, and the stick used to poke at your floor number (violently at times), from their seat in the corner of the elevator.

  Finding our door on the 5th floor can be challenging since the buttons for the lights are hard to spot in the pitch black darkness.  But once you open the door, aaaaaaHHHHHHH, relief, our lovely apartment.  We have been decorating it diligently, after doing a major clean up effort (chinese hygene standards are very..... practical).  Had a maid come in to help, paying her almost twice as much as the going rate - meager $1 an hour.  Now besides the cockroaches, in eternal battle with us, our apt is taking on a sweet and hospitable feel.  Not too bad for US$150 a month per person - though not as cheap as the chinese 8 person dorms (8!!!) which go for US$60 a year.  that's right, a year.

  Good news is that as of a month ago a new law came into effect stating that foreigners can live in 'Chinese people' buildings, as long as they pay a certain amount per square foot.  So maybe, though it is not certain, our living situation might no longer be illegal.  Wasn't really a problem anyway, since just about everything is illegal in China, to one extent or another. We've heard great stories of cops busting foreigners' apartments, kicking them out,  so we had a few concerns, but now things appear to be taking on a postive outlook.  Exciting stuff.

  Our landlord is called HeHe (just like the sound you make when you laugh out loud), and we call him the He-Man.  Not a word of English, and speaks chinese too fast for our pathetic little brains, but somehow we communicate.  Our neighbor is a fat Chinese lady that babbles like there is no tomorrow.  Her daughter is learning English and wants us to help, so we're rapidly developing some 'guanxi' - connections/relationship.  I must say, if nothing else our living situation right now has a whole bunch of character, I love it.

Sneaking around Xinjiang

ADVENTURES IN THE NORTH WESTERN PROVINCE OF CHINA

3 nights on a train and several million miles later i'm back in Beijing.  Xinjiang province, on the very northwest of China, was absolutely amazing.  Arabic script and Chinese characters side by side, Middle Eastern food, a wild mixture of ethnicities.  Could see anything from Tibetan, Kazakh, Russian, Mongolian (and Chinese!) peoples, whose only shared characteristic was they'd all gawk at us two white boys strolling the streets of Urumqi with our fat hiking packs.  Ate some lamb kebabs, yummmmmiest sesame round breads, learnt how to say hi thanks goodbye in Uygur tongue and then booked it to the northern tip of China, this sweet lake we heard about (Hanasi).

The overnight bus ride was smoky stinky and crammed, stopping every two hours at traveller junctions along the desert.  Flat and dry.  Then rolling hills and a river sparkling green shrubs far away.  Up mountains into grassland plateaus, Mongolian yurts in plush valleys (yurts are round houses made of what looks like wood, carpet and animal hides).  Finally to the most turquoise bright blue river i've ever seen, dredging deep into the valley.  The actually lake is in an certified 'tourist area' so they charge an exorbitant $12 to get in, approximately 2 and a half days worth of food around here.  Obviously the ticket price is way above our meager budget, plus we are inherently adventure seekers, so we bush bash and trek through the forest to get around the entrance.  Arrive at the 'village' on the lakeside, but it is actually a high class retreat for rich Chinese seeking a bit of nature; fortunately the lake extends several miles north so we strap on our packs, buy a bunch of 2 minute noodles and head off in the bush.

The lake is bordered on all sides by very steep dense pine forests, presenting not a glimmer of possibility for camping with access to water.  Exhausted, cut up by the bushwacking, we start losing hope of finding a cool campsite. Around midafternoon we spot a flat area in the distance, which seems impossibly far to me, but my companion Reid fortunately motivates us - we thrown on our sandals and charge along the water's edge, avoiding fallen trees and vines, picking our way through precarious rocks and freezing snowmelt water.  How beautiful it is though, in complete wonder the whole time, the blue hue of the water is both light and deep, backdropped by big peaks with whispers of snow left even now in summer. 

Finally arrive at our campsite, where we stay until our food ends, 2 nights later.  We are 30 feet up from the water's edge in a small meadow flanked by white barked trees, and nestled between steep hills.  Besides the occasional zooming of a tourist speed boat, it is perfect, warm sun stoking us for skinny dips in the snowmelt lakewater, freezing nights kept abay by a pumping fire.  good times.

Head back to Urumqi, load up with crazy amounts of nuts, raisins, spices, bloat ourselves silly with delicious bread, then go to the winemaking desert oasis of Turpan. Stay in a very nondescript Uygur lodging, woken up every dawn with prayers to Mecca.  Rent bikes and cruise down the endless vineyards,eat more grapes than our digestive systems are designed to handle.  At night in the wide open Chinese style parks eat spicy noodles and lamb kebabs, watermelon until we pass out.  Our impending departure and anxiety that we won't get this sort of food in Beijing ensures that we both just about get sick from overeating.  it's worth it though.

China coast to the deepest interior

FROM THE BEACHES OF QUINGDAO, PUTUOSHAN, TO THE DESERT OF URUMQI

a de-brief on the excitement of these last two weeks....

friends Reid, Isabelle, and I were on a mission to find a nice beach to hang out on, and fulfill our nostalgic memories of good times in Cali.  Thus we were hoping on and off buses along the coastline searching for a nice nook where we could do some serious chillin'.  China is becoming rapidly a tourist wonderland though (95% of which are chinese tourists) so most places have some authoritarian scheme of tickets, passes, tours, whatever... which we attempt to avoid at all costs.  the best move we made was to buy an old tarp off some fishermen, which meant that suddenly we had shelter, given we could find a few long sturdy sticks.  this the local chinese always found very amusing, whole hordes would congregate and watch our operation, trying to figure out what these foreigners were up to.


we were setting off one fine morning to a hike, got talking to some Korean lady, and ended up getting dragged up to her restaurant for lunch.  this was a serious gourmet chef that had decided to set up on this beach here in China - gastronomical wonders, a whole bunch of beer - these Koreans were a rowdy bunch.  we tried to bail after lunch without losing too much face, given we could never hope to pay for the meal (they were treating us) but instead they insisted we all go together and do some karaoke - the favorite pasttime of these people.  very odd dynamic, them singing in korean, we in english, communicating with one another in chinese.  more beer was had.  so yeah, basically we ended up sleeping in their restaurant that night.

at some stage we arrived in this cool place called Yang Kou, a long beach surrounded by mountains, kind of a touristy/fisher village.  figured this was the spot to be, set up camp and went out for dinner, leaving some of our gear behind.  had felt a weird vibe from some characters hanging around our camp before, but didn't pay attention - there's always chinese hanging around checking out what you are up to, there is no such thing as privacy in china.  anyway back from dinner our bags were missing!!  the full moon was out and we saw them scattered around the beach.... very very bummed.   not much stuff was stolen after all, but we are over it, find an overnight security guard nearby and crash on his doorstep. 

back in Qingdao we are in the endless struggle to try and get money.  It's really curious, each of us has a 'Bank of China' account in beijing but aparently all the other 'Bank of China' building around the country are somehow... different.  meaning they don't have a clue as to how we can access our money, with our Bank of China ATM cards, or other means.  The most ironic moment was when this one bank representative told us to go to the Construction and Communication Bank, they might be able to help us; which obviously resulted in us getting laughed at when we got there - feel helpless.  The most wonderful thing though was when i happened to notice a random little Bank of China ATM inside a department store - we knew the department store at least would have it together, they want our money after all.  so that scabby little ATM worked, but the main bank branch accross the street couldn't deal with us.  don't ask me how this country functions financially, it's beyond me.

ran through Shanghai one day on the way to some islands - crazy building everywhere, kind of cool eastern twist on modernity but people are mean capitalist bastards compared to the relaxed feeling in Beijing.  but it was worth checking out i guess - the best part actually was leaving Shanghai by boat, steaming our way through the old ports with super glittery building on either side, humongous billboards in chinese and english, a funky cargo boat chugs by.  was all kind of cool.

our beach explorations culminating in the islands southeast of shanghai.  the first destination was supposedly the less touristy option, but they had strict tickets to get into the beach, we were fooled.  we clearly didn't pay a dime, but managed to get sunburnt and wet anyway.  that night a massive tropical rainstorm hit.  crazy lightning cutting the skies, fatty rain pouring down.  the outdoor restaurant we were at refused to see us huddle under our tarp and absolutely insisted that we sleep in their room inside.  Reid and I really wanted to watch the storm so we managed to leave after a long time convincing these people that we would not die.  Was amazing how much they felt obliged to take us in though, Isabelle really had no option i think they would have tackled her and dragged her in before allowing her to go out and watch the storm with us.

so then we head to the more touristy island, which was super cool, it's one of the 4 Buddhist sacred sites in china.  Stayed in this lady's house, who hijacked us as soon as we were off the boat, was a nice mellow setup.  Sneaked into beaches during the day and night.  found big old ruins that the army used ten years ago - we were going to stay there one night but got freaked out and ran back to the beach to camp, tails between legs.  too scary, thunderstorms in the distance don't do much to help.  On the way back to Shanghai on the boat, these wild chinese from the north decided they wanted to toast a drink with us, which turned out the be a 2hour drinking ordeal straight from hell.  bad news since we are on a boat, no where to escape to.  alcohol is a serious part of chinese culture, i remember on our trip to Inner Mongolia our teachers told us to at least 'fake' drinking the god awful white liquor to not offend our hosts.

So....   

now Isabelle went back to Beijing, she starts school earlier than Reid or I.  we decide to throw a 180 degree twist on our vacation, get on a train heading northwest for a long, long time.  51 hours later, Xinjiang province, city of Urumqi, the world's furthest metropolitan area from the ocean, who would have thought Kristian Beadle would arrive here one day.  I wish i had a world map just to see where i am.  The air is fresh and dry though, and there are all sorts of Uygurs, Kazahks, Chinese, Pakistanis around.  Arabic and Chinese script everywhere.  hope to find some nice lakes and mountains, hike around. 

Beer fest and robbery

last time i did let you people know i was heading down to Qing Dao, where the Tsing Tao beer fest was taking place- we never actually took part in that wonderful event, since it looked so tacky and cheesy, and ended up on the beach camping.  been doing it ever since, many misadventures, such as being treated by Koreans to great food and karaoke, having some of our gear stolen while we were out eating, getting blasted by a tropical rainstorm.  so far so good.  Currently in an island south east of Shanghai - will fill in on more details later....

The relationship between beer and massage

massage is the key to life in China.  there's five hundred hair dressers on every street, for $1.50 they wash your hair and give you a head/face/back rub for 45 minutes.  but that is not enough.  Bathhouses are where it's at, a bit more expensive but it's full on.  first you strip your clothes and are thrown in this big communal shower - you need to have consumed at least 2 beers beforehand to feel comfortable.  next they give you a miniscule excuse for a hand towel which is the only thing to cover your vital organs and plomp you on this table and work you for an hour and a half.  many innovative technique are used, including some salt like substance which exfoliates your body like no other.  then you're given a robe and thrown into this room with couchs and beds, everyone is chilling watching TV.  at this point one of two things have happened.   1, women come up to you aggressively and offer to give you the "big airplane", otherwise known as the great ride., usually combined with suggestive hand gestures.  2, bunch of interested blokes come up and talk to you, and the only english word the know is 'gay'.  that's right, at that point we usually leave.  the funny thing is that my buddy Nick, who just so happens to be Buddhist, and very down to earth and righteous lad, is most often the main instigator of our late night massage pursuits.

leaving today with my buddies to go to this coastal city where the country's largest brewery is.  they're having a 'beer fest' this weekend, all tickets by train are sold out but this afternoon we'll go to the train station and figure it out.

The post-11pm happenings

BEIJING NIGHTLIFE

some of the more nightlife-conscious people out there are wondering what Kristian gets up in the wee hours of the day.  so quick word on the chinese night club is due...

on arrival they're playing some slow dance, oldies music, and you're wondering "did I just pay 10 kuai for this?!" but you want to be culturally flexible and decide to sit down and talk to some people, see what happens.  not a problem for two white boys to spark up conversation, although communicating in broken chinese over the loud music can be a problem at times.  you notice people are drinking...  juice.  beer is approximately 10 times more expensive than outside, so the chinese (budget conscious people they are) chill with their little fruit juice boxes, no worries.

the slow music stops and some trendy looking character speaks in the microfone for who know how long - i have no idea what is being said the whole time, but suddenly he starts calling numbers up, and people come up to the stage: a raffle!!  people walk out with all sorts of stuff, cd players, shoes whatever.  realize that is why there were funny little numbers on the ticket they gave you at the door. 

when it's over, the lights dim and absolutely crazy bumping techno hits, rocking the house... everyone flocks to the floor and dance till the end of the night. 

good times at the chinese club, never know what'll come next.

The bathroom situation in China

so what they don't tell us in the orientation for study in China is that the toilets over here are a bit funky.  as a matter of fact majority of bathroom don't have toilet seats - there's a low lying hole type toilet which you just squat over.  There's a technique and everything, something our parents never taught us, you've got to squat with your heels on the ground, instead of all your weight on the balls of your feet.  You should try it!!!  it's amazing the stability one attains in this wonderful position.  as a matter of fact you can see chinese squatting out on the street (they don't poo on the street by the way), just hanging out talking on the cel phone or to another girl that's squatting there too - peculiar stuff.

an odd thing is that there is absolutely NO toilet paper anywhere you go - people carry it around and stuff.  can be an issue at times.  last weekend I was at a club, waiting to go to the bathroom and the poo stalls didn't even have doors, but the funny thing was this guy was staring at me while taking a shit, very intimidating.  he made some motion, and then offered me toilet paper, figuring I was an unprepared foreigner.  the communal environment over here is very open.

in the second week of school (after all standard topics of conversation had been exhausted) people primarily talked about how well their bowels were working- seriously a major topic of discussion.  constipation, diarrhea, anything in between. the food is so greasy and heavy it works the internal systems.  everyone knows how long it's been since your last poo.  maybe i'm exaggerating a bit, ok, but we just about had a party when my buddy down the hall finally cleared his system after a week long stint of stagnation.  the things one takes for granted in the modern west.

i've finally got the situation under control though, buy a bunch of fruit, watermelons by the dozen ($.50 a watermelon), minimizing on the baozi and jiaozi greasy but yummy dumpling things.  you've got to be seriously conscious about diet and stuff - at least food is cheaper than water over here.  oh yeah this weekend i bought a 600ml (quart) bottle of beer for one sixth of a dollar.  no kidding.........   it's a key ingredient to destroy those germs, they say. 

No destination in mind

we've been doing plenty of group excursion, dozens of students running amok in pseudo touristy areas, so i'm branching off this weekend and going on a mission.  My buddy Reid and I are getting on some sort of train, and charge out to a random destination.  figure it can't be too bad whatever we do, since a quart of beer costs $0.25.  seriously it is cheaper than water - people say that beer is more plentiful than water in isla vista but i've never been seriously offered beer for breakfast.  we have found, however, that it is the most effective way to kill off excess germs that are hanging out in the food - a good quart of Yang jing pijiu.  still hope to one day be able to order food...  or at least know what we order.  it is usully no worries though, a solid dinner will be $1.50 per person....  and there's a tsan guanr selling food every 100 feet in beijing  So it is not a problem to remain stuffed and inebriated in constant hedonism around here - so much for spiritual enlightenment we seek to gain from Eastern wisdom. 

We're going to head out on Friday, with no particular destination in mind; we'll let the train schedules make the decision for us. in search of a less touristy destination, a nice hike with pretty views, maybe a low key temple in a valley, some chinese folks to talk to. it's funny this last weekend i'd go to these places with my friends, and instead of actually making it to the 'sightseeing' area, we'd get stuck somewhere along the line hanging out with people, or taking in the surroundings. not so important to see the particular 'attractions' anymore, talking to a 5 year old is enough (if not more interesting!!!)

don't think i've said much about my living situation - we basically live in a hotel, very much pampered, bathrooms in each room, hot water for tea down the hall. my roommate and I are a very good match, have made our room extremely livable, plants and tapestries and such. he's super hard working student but will go out and party/dance, do random things. it's a good balance.

already starting to look for a place to live in fall though, as prices range from $100-$500 a month depending on whether you get a 'legal' place or not. 'Legal' being government approved housing for foreigners, so the landlords jack up the price It seems to me that about half the foreigners live in illegal housing, and half don't, but it is a matter i am looking into.

Excursions outside the city

THE GREAT WALL & CHENGDE WITH 100 OTHER STUDENTS
4 buses of 30 people each, we travel to a non-touristy part of the Great Wall.  We are dropped off at Simatai and hike to the next town, 6 miles away. The hike is very intense - no one is expecting how tough it'll be.  We climb and drop steep mountain ridges, millions of steps in various stages of decay provide unsure footing.

The sun is hot and a few consider going back. So we trudge onwards, the desperate among us buying overpriced bottled water that the chinese have carted up here.

The views are impressive - the Great Wall winding along endless valleys, providing relief to the vast green countryside. The engineers of the Great Wall managed to build to the top of every peak, no matter how steep and inaccesible it might be. Although it is very impressive to look at, when it comes time to climb the vertical stone steps in the midday sun, we wonder at the crazy ambitions which drove this project.

On the 2nd day we stayed in a village, a very odd experience.  This was the attempt to give students a 'genuine' view of village life, but pre-packaging such an experience is clearly a lost cause.  The village and inhabitants were choreographed to carry out our stay, which basically centered on eating food.

We had three meals at the village: lunch, dinner, then the following morning breakfast, each in a different household. Each time the hosts piled a ton of food in our face (which is standard chinese custom) but strangely enough, all three meals were exactly the same. We had sugar tomatos, fried chicken, and hard boiled eggs for all three meals, all heavily laden in MSG flavoring. Everything had been bought in bulk, and by the time breakfast came along no one even wanted to look at the piles of food we were supposed to eat.
 
After the village, we went to the old imperial town of Chengde, surrounded by wonderful mountains.  I was grossly tired of our tourist excursions, so I tried to escape from the group as much as possible. The tour guides would go up to the famous temple and I'd slink off to the corner, then strike up conversation with random Chinese. 

They are exceedingly friendly, and will talk for 2 hours about the most basic things (the limitation of my language skills).  There are so few foreigners, and even fewer who actually speak Mandarin, that the novelty of connecting with a "white devil" is an exciting opportunity. I pull out my language textbooks, and a half dozen Chinese will huddle around and try to help me. They have absolutely no sense of privacy, but this only speeds my learning process, as I often have to deal with small crowds asking questions, laughing, watching. Occasionally I feel exhausted but just keep going, speaking this funny tongue of theirs.

Getting ready for 6 months in China

Studying for my Chinese language final tomorrow.  Then after that, I'll have Religion and Anthropology finals, all about China.  I'm all Chinesed out!  But I don't think that I'm quite psychologically prepared for my move - in 2 weeks I'll be in Beijing.  I have such a comfortable existence here in Santa Barbara, that it is hard to fathom a place with no ocean at my doorstep, mountains in my backyard, and multiple board sports to choose from.  At least I'll take my trusty skateboard - and represent the classic stereotype Californian, cruising around in boardshorts and sandals.  Plus my blonde hair is fairly long and ragged, some would say borderline "feral", which should create a stir. In a sea of black hair, there's no way I'll fit in, so I may as well have fun with it.