chinese grannies & freezing weather

Crazy changes in weather in Beijing, have thrown us innocent foreigners into a frenzy.  From sweaty, baulmy, t-shirt at night climate to frigid mitten wearing days.  I feel like I slept through autumn, not sure where it went.  The supply of thermal underwear at the local supermarket has kept us alive, profiting greatly from us unprepared Californians.  Most harsh was the lack of heating in our building, until just recently.  Collectively controlled by the government, their anticipated startup date was Nov. 15th.  Early cold weather spell ensured that even midday in our apartment, you could marvel at your our breath condensing in the air.  This we feel is not normal!

Our apartment came without the most basic of items: a fridge.  But that is no problem now.  The outside veranda is sufficient refrigeration, for anything but icecream.  The result of this cold weather is unexpected changes to our psyche and psysiology.  Periods of irritability are not uncommon, as is a general refusal to exercise our sappy bodies.  It is increasingly difficult to crawl out of the blankets in the frosty morning, and make it to the bathroom to "convenience yourself", as the chinese say.  The slap in the face comes when you peak out the window and discover the dozens of 70 to 80 years old are in the patio below, diligently practicing tai chi or their fan-wielding dances, as if it were mid July.  Not sure how they get their bodies in motion at such inhospitable temperatures.  Perhaps its the same perplexion others have when I plunge into the ocean for a pre-dawn surf sesh.  So I guess I can sympathize...

The old folks in this country are phenomenal.  It's as close to utopia for those of "advanced age" as is possible.  In driveways, parks, under highway overpasses, every morning hundreds are out perfecting their bodies for ancestral veneration.  Whole communities of ball room dancers, drum circles, tai chi, and innumerable eccentric ways to stretch your calf muscle.  When I first arrived in Beijing I was struck by the number of playgrounds scattered around town.  Turns out they're all exercise 'toys' for the old folks.  Must see to believe.  So wonderful it warms the heart in the coldest days!! 

After weeks of gossip and misleading reports, "they" have turned on the heaters, earlier than scheduled!!  Bless the flexible & sympathetic souls of the central government.