From the Inside

SARAJEVO, BOSNIA

I realize I have skipped a wonderful chunk of time in my storytelling, from leaving the old imperial city of Vienna, until my profit seeking efforts in Dubrovnik three days ago. In the middle lies two fascinating weeks, crossing the Alps by train into Slovenia, spending the night at a lovely cottage in northern Croatia, where an old couple raise rabbits and vegetables and make brandy; driving into Bosnia where many roofs and walls are still crumbling from the bombs a few years ago; walking through Sarajevo¡s old town with picturesque Muslim quarters, new mosques being built next to machine gun shattered buildings; graveyards, endless endless rows of graves lining the hillsides.

We learned a lot from Paul's father who is a translator for the NATO generals in Bosnia - the conflict is complexity to the extreme, religious ethnic and political differences colliding after Yugoslavia broke down. Stayed at his girlfriend's apartment, who told us about the 2 or 3 year siege on Sarajevo, when no water or electricity was available; there is still a patched bullet hole on her fridge. Then drive through canyons and parched land all the way to the Mediterrenean glory of Dubrovnik and nearby towns, warm salty water and islands just offshore. Many days were spent on the beach... and there were many other random parables which will be re-told at a future time. For now I must pack and prepare to leave; and head West like so many have done before!!