Harbin, part 2

HARBIN: FIRST IMPRESSIONS
We pull up to the gate at Harbin at 8:20AM. Right away I see a big sign that proclaims: NO drugs, alcohol, celphones, pets, cameras, or fire allowed at Harbin. Ok, a bit extreme, but I can handle that. We pay the gatekeeper $25 each and head straight to the hot tubs. I have no idea what to expect. We walk up the hill towards the pool area, and despite it being freezing cold (the sun doesn't get into the valley till 9:00AM) there's a naked guy walking around casually. Geez, I wonder how he's not cold. Those hot springs must really do the trick!

Then I see the sign "Dressing Room" above a door and head for it. Suddenly, I woman with a towel around her waist walks out of the door, which made me halt. You know that feeling when you almost walked into the restroom of the opposite sex? So I felt the simultaneous confusion of that embarrased feeling and the insecurity of not seeing a sign indicating Men's or Women's sides. Was this dressing room, uh, Co-ed?



Samantha took the initiative and walked into the dressing room, so I warily followed her, noting that there were both ladies and gentlemen in the room, in various levels of undress. Ok... I needed a moment to transition to this new reality, so I quickly looked around for a restroom, where I could escape into for some brief solitude. Buy myself an minute or two.

After a few minutes, I had adjusted psychologically, so I had a rinse-off in the shower, and then slithered my way into the large warm pool. Ahhhh. It felt great. I was happy that Samantha was there - I could just tag along with her. I can't imagine being a novice AND solo at one of these co-ed bath houses. Nudity in the dark hours of the night, outdoors in a remote hot spring or beach is one thing; nudity in the bright fluorescent lights of a bathroom is more shocking.

But everyone was extremely respectful. No one made eye contact. Everyone seemed to concentrate intensely on the point two feet in front of their bodies, whether it be for relaxation, a spiritual exercise, or just to keep from staring at others, I do not know. I suppose this is natural. Nudity among strangers requires a serious mood; everyone acts cool, non-chalant, like this is no big deal, so that everyone can remain comfortable.

I read an important sign: "Any sexual activity in and around the pools, or uninvited advances, will result in immediate expulsion from Harbin." I made a mental note not to make any sexual advances.

I crawled over to the hot plunge. Whereas the large warm pool was a balmy 100-102 degrees, the hot plunge is closer to 110 degrees fahrenheit. It is absurdly hot! I learned at Tassajara that you can't ease your way into extreme heat or cold; you have to be committed, and immerse yourself quickly. The sharp pain that blasts your skin (especially the feet) only backs off when you're all the way in the pool. Breath slow and deep, and try not to move very much, otherwise it hurts. I notice a white guy getting out of the water, his skin blistering red like that of a boiled lobster, up to where the water line touched his neck. Like a very intense sun burn. Damn it's hot! I leave after about 1 minute.

I crawled over to the cold plunge. Here is the reward! The flash of cold brings intense relief to my skin, whereas my internal temperature remains high. The result is a wonderful hot/cold tingle which made me feel like a million bucks. I got out of the pool and felt the volume of my lungs expanding, my body pumped up like a gorilla in heat - I could just bang my fists on my chest and shout like Tarzan! But I contain myself because this is a "sacred" environment. There are signs everywhere to be silent. So I breath deeply and go to the sauna.

And so it continued. - alternating between sauna, warm pool, hot and cold plunges. After 45 minutes my body was releasing so much heat I could comfortably walk around naked, even if it were snowing outside. All my muscles where tender and relaxed. I was slightly out of it though, not being used to these intense temperatures, so Samantha and I went for a walk, really enjoying the NorCal mountain air.

....to be continued