HIGHLIGHTS

Wednesday, September 05, 2007

Going to Twin Harbors


As if the gale had blown away the residual funk from my psyche, and left me uncluttered and fresh, I went about the day like a new person. For breakfast, I prepared the first genuine good meal of the trip: eggs on toast with cherry tomatoes and avocado. I then got everything "shipshape" and headed into the Channel, tacking upwind.

I was bound for Twin Harbors, which was to be my first visit to the anchorage, located to the west of Pelican Bay. The Channel was foggy and cold, but the wind was consistent out of the west, and the seas relatively light. With the tiller lashed, the boat maintains a bearing of 330 degrees on one tack, then 210 degrees on another. I don't venture too far into the Channel to avoid the shipping lanes, which pass quite close to this end of the island.


I sit in the leeward side of the cockpit, sheltered from the wind, reading my book, glancing every so often at the compass bearing. I get up to tack the boat then return to my comfortable position. Despite the fog and cold this may be one of the most pleasant days of the trip - when a boat is sailing herself to your destination, life could hardly seem more ideal.

Especially when compared to the descriptions in Two Years Before The Mast of a passage around Cape Horn during winter, with frozen decks, snow

storms, and massive seas, the situation here at 34 degrees North 120 degrees West feels very cozy.

The incessant work of the merchant men does inspire me to work myself, and I venture on deck with a screwdriver, heeling over 15 degrees, and remove the belaying pins which have been getting my jib sheets stuck. Quite satisfying to be productive while "on the go".

Five hours later, approach Twin Harbors - two tiny coves with tall cliffs surrounding them. I choose the one to the east, which looks much more sheltered. This is the calmest anchorage so far, we're within 45 feet of the rocks and securely berthed. Having skipped lunch, I prepare an early dinner which is delicious: polenta over sauteed veggies with masala sauce.

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