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LEAVING SANTA CRUZ
I felt a distinct sense of relief. I was starting to feel a bit claustrophobic in Santa Cruz island - the onshore wind, rocky shore, cramped town. The boat dock was total chaos: 4 boats leaving for 2 islands, at 2pm everyday, down a tiny gangway. Through the confusion I heard the name of the boat, "Sunfish", and joined the other 2o passengers on a rough 3 hour crossing. (August and September are the roughest months, because the southeast tradewind is blowing non-stop.)
The Israeli backpackers were lucky to sleep on the floor - possibly the most comfortable place on the "Sunfish".
THE WATERFRONT
Puerto Baquerizo, the town in San Cristobal and capital of the Galapagos province, was gloomy and drizzly when we arrived. Still, the harbor was protected and calm, with a gentle offshore breeze, an impressive "malecon" (the waterfront) spanning several hundred yards, made of wood. I was instantly at ease.
Puerto Baquerizo in San Cristobal is calmer and more welcoming than neighboring Puerto Ayora in Santa Cruz island.
This time of year, it is usually cloudy during the day, but the sun will peek from under the clouds just before sunset.
ROOM UP ON THE HILL
After 20 minutes walking around town looking for affordable accomodation, a taxi driver told me about a $10/night room at someone´s house up on the hill. The newly built rooms on the third story far exceeded my expectations. I was greeted to an incredible view of the bay and a lefthander peeling in the distance. Landlady Celeste showed me around, and I immediately settled into my new favorite place, the large patio.
Mural on my wall facing the patio. The rock with the pointed crevace on the right is Leon Dormido, the famous diving spot to see sharks. The male frigate bird is the one on the top right, with a red throat sac to attract females.
The gourmet breakfast was $3 extra - fruit, eggs, pancakes or french toast, and plenty of fresh juice.
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