HIGHLIGHTS

Sunday, August 24, 2008

San Cristobal - surfing


First look at Tongo Reef, two guys out.

I was deceived from the view from my house, at the top of the hill - it looked like the surf was flat. So on the first day I walked out to Lobería, which is the sea wolf colony just past the airport, and picks up the most south swell. It is a heavy reefbreak just outside a pretty lagoon - unfortunately, the trade wind is blowing onshore at this spot, between June-Nov, 24 hours per day.

The following day, I walked out past the naval base to check out Tongo Reef, not expecting much; El Canon, the indicator spot which we can see from town, looked tiny. After the 25 minute walk I arrived at Tongo - it was overhead and consistent! I galloped back to town on my havaiiana sandals, scouted out a $10 rental board, and rushed to Tongo, where I had two excellent and redeeming afternoon sessions, on my own.

They were long lefthanders, tame but enjoyable, and the wildlife was unreal: a bunch of sea turtles swimming around, blue-footed boobies divebombing for fish, sea lions messing around. Sadly, as I went through the "minefield" of lava rocks on my way to shore, I snapped a fin off, which ended up costing me $20 for a replacement, out here in this isolated and costly island.


The view from the naval base enroute to Tongo. Popeye rules.


The outside and inside sections linking up. The water was 68-70 degrees fahrenheit.


The Cabana and the rental board. I ended up spending $60 on surfboard rentals all together, more cost-effective than bringing my own? Less hassle, at least...

While I was in Cristobal 2 weeks, there were 3 smallish swells, never much bigger than a foot overhead, and flat for days on end. People didn´t seem particularly surprised by this, except for me. The roaring 40s are pouring with storms, and everywhere else is pumping: Peru, Tahiti, Australia. So why is there so little swell in the Galapagos this time of year? Or maybe I caught a slow period and it usually pumps...

Everyone raves about the waves during the other season - November thru April - as the north swell spots are firing, the wind is calm, AND there is south swell. Go figure. Clearly, that´s the best time of year. But, I certainly got my money´s worth in the perfect playground of Tongo Reef, for seven days in the water.



Local kids were really good, even with just 2 years experience. They would sometimes wait for each other on the beach to share the board, as they likely co-owned the expensive tabla. The sea lions look like they´re slobbering white stuff, but it´s just an illusion.



The view of "El Canon" from Casa de Celeste, where I was staying. It never got big enough to surf it. There is, in fact, a big naval canon in front of the point.


Just past the actual point at Tongo is another section, called the "Peak" - I surfed this as it was less crowded and more powerful. Disadvantage: it is littered with rocks to dodge and weave through. No damages to body or equipment, I´m happy to report.

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